Third Wave Coffee

The first wave of American coffee culture, best way to describe it is probably Folgers on every table. And the second wave starting in the 1960s at Peet’s and moving through Starbucks baristas. Now, the third wave of coffee connoisseurship, where the focus is on achieving the highest form of culinary appreciation of coffee. The beans are sourced from farms instead of countries, roasting is about bringing out rather than incinerating the unique characteristics of each bean, and the flavor is clean and hard and pure.

It has been almost a year since I moved out of LA, being back this time around I keep whining about how boring it is in LA and Shanghai is so much cooler with new restaurants and shops. But I guess things are just different in the US, changes and developments happen slower in the land of freedom but you can’t underestimate their design and innovation. Like this “cool” cafe in Silver Lake that my friend, who is taking care of my car, “Bubble” introduced me to.

Just taking a look at their tools and facilitates, you know they take their coffee seriously. Owner is a Korean couple, Craig Min has been in the family business selling beans wholesale since 1997 in Alhambra (my hood).

LAMILL Coffee Boutique, as a perfect example of the third wave coffee is not a place for a cup of coffee to-go. What LAMILL offers is the coffee experience, with several brew methods to choose from; Clover machine, Siphon Brew (picture below), etc.

Aside from the coffee, they are just as particular about their food. Everything on our table looked so well-prepared. I had the doughnut holes with their ultra-fresh vanilla cream but I thought the doughnuts were too salty. The velvet cupcakes, which was only a weekend thing was deli-sh not the super moist ones but still soft and flavorful.

 

Anthropologie is so inspirational

What is a “soft” opening anyways?

According to wikipedia, “In a “soft opening,” the establishment begins to operate without a lot of attention. This allows the organization to become more organized the first few weeks or months before the more publicized Grand Opening, and gives the management and staff a chance to become familiar with the daily operations of their inventory, accounting, and customer service requirements.” Personally, I think it’s retarded. Who wants to waste their time and pay full price to be a guinea pig. Especially in luxury. Listen to my man Mr. Em “you only get one shot, do not miss your chance to blow”. First impression is your best shot to succeed, so do it right the first time.

What is Asia’s version of Italian luxury mall look like? Take a look at Taipei’s new luxury mall “Bellavita”, near Taipei 101 Shopping Mall, Shin Kong MItsukoshi Xinji Department Stores and the New York New York Shopping Center. The brand new shopping mall, which was nicknamed rich tai-tai (wives) mall, held a soft opening September 21 and received so much attention that security backup was called to maintain order among all the reporters and cameramen. And watching the news report, customers that drove all the way north to Taipei was disappointed to find that only 1 or 2 stores out of the 8 luxury brands including Bvlgari, Christofle, Hermes, Hermes 3-in-1 (La Table Hermes, Puiforcat, Saint Louis), John Lobb, Roger Vivier, Tod’s, Van Cleef & Arpels were opened.

I also went to check out BellaVita hoping most of the stores should be opened by now (a month later). But another disappointed customer…okay its not like I was going to drop a $10K on a Birkin but it was the chance to make an impression so I can spread the word about this “beautiful” vita. However, Hermes is a company that knows what they want and has a plan to get there. They had the entire grand floor occupied for this temporary “Hermes Silk Scarf Exhibition”.

Hermes is Hermes. Their obsession to control is apparent in their exhibition. Its no wonder they are the King of luxury, even Bernard Arnault of LVMH is rumored to place a bid for Hermes.

That chick is HOT!

Okay, I know this is a blog about fashion and retail, but people in fashion gotta eat right? Or at least admire others who can. But I think in any business you can always learn from others despite the industry and to analyze what makes them successful. Come on… look at that line!

This is it…毫大大鸡排 (XXL Chicken Steak). Lesson 1: The name says it all. When you’re in line, someone will come around and pass you a plastic bag. So when you’re up, all you gotta do is open your bag and they stuff all that chick inside. It makes for a very efficient assembly line chick purchase. Lesson 2: Efficiency. Not only does the bag increase efficiency, studies have shown that 75% of people who took a bag at a store will buy something. Now you know why the sales stand at the door to offer you a bag at Victoria Secret. Okay, back to the chick. I’m sure its a mental thing as well, but people standing is that huge line would tend to keep waiting if they are already holding a bag ready for chick dumping. Lesson 3: Get your customers involve in the process.

I know it is only a tiny stand among many other food stands. But these people take their chicken very seriously. As you can tell by this guy in the picture, aiming that white pepper for an even spread. Lesson 4: Passion + Dedication.

When they say XXL, they really mean it. Look at the size of that thing. It’s like a half chicken for only 50 yuan (under 2$). That’s definitely bang for your bucks. Lesson 5: If you offer value and great products people will come.

A store with no name

I guess it’s not so unusual to find a store in Shanghai without a name. But we never really know why these clothing shops exist without a name.

I stumble upon this shop on Xinle Lu near Shangxi nan Lu, across from Dashing Diva nail salon. I was with another friend, who was recognized by the shop owner since they were all IFA design students. It turns out the two young girls running this no-name shop are current IFA undergrad design students. According to them, they were bored and thought, why not open a clothing shop. The store had no name, and the only logo on the front window was left from the previous owner. When we ask what they plan on doing with the shop, they had no clue.

I’m truly amazed at how a store can be open without a name, a concept, a logo, or even a slight idea to what the point was. Okay…there was a point… “cuz we were bored”. Sometimes when I come across stories about how people started their business it seems overly simple. Of course, something like 95% of new businesses fail, but 100% of ideas fail if it never left the concept stage and make it to the start-up stage. And I think to myself…why am I still stuck at figuring out the 4Ps. Follow Nike…and “just do it”.

The store’s lack of concept, merchandising, visual focus, and more than I can even count… got me to think about retail consulting. And I think of how far Taiwan has come with their mom-and-pop shops and the well design logos, store concepts, and customer service; Shanghai has so much room to grow in this area. Any bored talents out there want to partner?

Show and Tell

Show and Tell, located inside Grand Gateway, Xuijiahui open last Spring with a huge launch party in which they were giving out goodie-bags. A friend of mine knows the owner, who used to be the president of Gap Inc. Soucing for Asia Pacific Meanne Ho. And I went with my friend to return a 380 rmb pair of jeans she brought during the opening under peer pressure, but realized it didn’t fit and and the quality wasn’t that great. We spent 45 mins persuading the manager  to let us return, if not, at least offer store credit. Our argument was the owner is American, the concept is American, shouldn’t the return policy be American? Okay…I know the logic is a little weak, but come on, at least have a sign saying “No returns”.

My overall impression of the store is like a more fashionable version of Gap, but I have to say the quality of their clothes is way worst than Gap. Everytime I see something I like, once I touch the fabric, I’m completely turned off especially knowing the price tag. But I really like the store interior, it reminds me of being back home shopping at Gap and the American lifstyle. They create this atmosphere with displays of “American Fashion” books, picture of Audrey Hepburn, vintage American record. The store is nice but I’m not exactly sure if they are making money. I did get a SMS at 2 in the morning last week notifying me they have a huge discount sale from 50-80% off. I guess opening a clothing store in Shanghai isn’t as easy as it sounds…even for an expert.

Best mascara in the world

Most asian girls are probably still looking for that perfect mascara that won’t smear and turn you into 欣欣 the Olympic panda. But ever since my girlfriend convinced me she’s found the perfect mascara a year ago, I haven’t been able to try any other brand. Ladies and gentlemen…I bring you THE BEST MASCARA IN THE WORLD…SERGE LUTENS.

The secret is in theis little comb and the paste of the mascara, which only comes in black and if you look closely it has a slight bronze/purple tent. I don’t know how it works but I have to say it’s not just any waterproof, it’s everywhere-anywhere-proof. I swear I was wearing Serge Lutens mascara while snorkeling in Thailand and it lasted all day and my coconut on the beach after sunset pictures had no smear or signs of fading. It is truly magical.

Serge Lutens mascara is only available in two Barney’s locations in the states. The French brand created by Serge Lutens, known for his art and photography under Shiseido was originally only about perfume. The picture to the above is a young portrait of Serge Lutens, which I noticed looks a lot like our MarCom teacher, who used to work at Shiseido.

When I was in Paris last month I had the chance to visit the “Les Salons du Palais Royal”, (a house of perfume) in the beautiful “Jardins du Palais Royal”. The interior of the store had a slight Anna Sui feel due to the deep purple walls and this seductive ambulance with extremely dim lights, probably to emphasize the “smell” of your 5 sensory.

Okay, here’s the catch this “best mascara in the world” don’t come cheap. For $60 a pop, it is not your average makeup fix. I have to say, I normally don’t spend a lot on makeup, cosmetics, and I’m not your everyday-luxury consumer. The first few times, it hurt knowing I just spent a tank of gas (when gas prices were ridiculous) on mascara, but after a few compliments I started to appreciate the value and I’ve been one satisfied customer.

I did manage to stock up in Paris since it was only 36 Euro and they stuff all these free samples for you to take home and try. The secretive store and this very refine French saleslady (who knew nothing about their makeup line but had the names of each scent memorized by heart) helped me sample all their scent but I just couldn’t stand the smell. Their lightest scent was still too pungent for my nose. I guess it just wasn’t the time to leave my green tea scent from Elizabeth Arden, which I had since highschool prom. I guess it was my luck because if I did find a scent I love I would be $300 poorer, as their products don’t come cheap. At all.

Colette-what concept?

You know you’ve been there…dress up to go shopping. Maybe you’re heading to Kitson in LA, Plaza 66 in Shanghai, Barney’s New York, Liberty in London, and you’ve put on that little something to impress. But the ultimate snob shopping has to be Colette, but they have a good reason to be.

Although some people hate to admit it, but Colette is the ultimate trendsetting concept store in the world. This is where fashion industry people get the latest info on what’s hot.

Everything in the store has a concept to brag about. It would be impossible to find a Parisian who has never heard of Colette. With three floors of clothing, music, jewelery, accessories, cosmetics, books, and even high-tech gadgets from around the world. A cafe with water from around the world and music bar you can download CDs onto your ipod.

But I was a little confused walking into this supposed “coolest” store looking for signs to tell me a theme or a concept. The store has no visible identification besides cards with two blue dots at the cashier. It was only after reading about it and hearing people talk about Colette, did I really get the “real” concept. A concept of no standard concept. It is this anonymity that allows Colette to remain in a category of its own. By not giving the store an assigned face, it lets people decipher the store for themselves and allows them to make their own assumptions and discoveries about what Colette is really all about.

It reminds me of MTV, which no longer stand for  “music television” but “pop-culture”, so why choose one standard logo and not let their fans the creative control over their branding. Its no longer “products” but a “lifestyle” that companies are selling. Red Bull is about “energy” not “energy drinks”. So why create just a “store” not “trends”.

Since its opening in 1997, Colette has revolutionized the Parisian streets with their new approach towards consumer culture. Located on Rue Saint Honoré, Colette is more than just a retail outlet, serving an international hub of pop culture, rare, specialized fashion, design and exhibitions. Colette has since become a brand in itself. Those two blue dots means something different to everyone and thats the most beautiful concept of all.

Colette Music

Colette Hello Kitty

Colette Timberland

Have your purse and eat it too

Loewe…Chanel…LV….can you believe they are cakes!! Designer bags…desserts, two things women can’t get their hands or folks off of. But who says you can’t have your cake and eat it too. At Cabler, you can find similar handcraft masterpieces custom made for their customer at one of their three locations in Shanghai.

Look at the details on that bag…I mean cake. At Cabler, you get the owner’s sense of humor and passion for creativity through their cake designs.

Plus, you not only eat with your mouth you eat with your eyes. I know desserts in Taiwan, following their Japan neighbor, tend to be less sweet and lighter in texture.

But something, I noticed after going to a few Taiwanese birthday parties (picture above was a friend’s bday last week), they tend to end up on the birthday person’s face . So in some cases for cakes, visual may be more important than taste.

No wonder they choose Gubei, a community with high concentration of Taiwanese, as a major location. But I wonder if these low-sugar cake hit the local sweet spot in their other two locations, one on 422 Dagu Lu (near Shimengyi Lu) and the other near Pudong.

Cabler also offers individual cakes for in-store dining or take-out. If you buy thee individual cakes you get the fourth one free. You have a choice of flavors from mango mouse, Japanese chestnut, Bailey cheesecake, Earl chocolate, Black forrest, cherry cheesecake, and much more.

The cafe is modern and classic offering you a quite and private area to order as many cakes as you want without being judged. And you have plenty of magazines to hide your face in case you run into your friends.

The sitting area has a cold and lonely feeling. I’m not sure if its the problem of feng-shui or lack of marketing to attract customer to dine in, but I’ve visited the store in Gubei 3 times and I’ve never seen anyone sitting there. Most of the customers are buying individual cakes to-go or pre-ordering their cakes for pick-up the next day. Maybe its about demographic selection, their Dagu location seats up to 60 people.

RippleFit

Ripplefit is one of my favorite boutique on Jinxian Lu. Owner, Ken Yu studied in Vancouver and worked as a buyer in Amsterdam before returning to Shanghai to start his own shop with three other designers; Jeffrey Z, Han Lu Lu, and Stena Wong, all of them studied fashion overseas.

This cozy shop has a classical romantic French movie feel to it. Although their price range from 550-1500rmb, but their clothes are original pieces, and not your average leftover-stock-from-foreign-orders shops. Ken the “lao-ban” was extremely nice and patient as he explains their clothes are all designed and made in their Ripplefit studio, therefore sizes and colors are limited.

The store decor is elegant with key furnishing pieces, such as a bath tub next to the window gives you a sense of sophisticated personality. However, from a visual merchandising standpoint the product assortment is a bit of a mess. Nothing really goes with anything besides some sort of a color assortment from light to dark. Instead, if you want to bring out your dark pieces, you could insert a brighter piece in between the black items. This way, people’s eyes are drawn by the bright colors which contrast, and adds a greater value and appreciation for each individual black items, more so if they were hung in a lump of dark colors.

Looking outside their core products, such as this interesting display of drugstore hand-lotions sitting next to a 1,200rmb handbags, which I thought was kinda odd. I’m not sure if their customers often get dry hands after a long day of shopping and flippy through clothes and demand some damn lotion, but it just didn’t quite fit the image of a “designer” brand.

Nevertheless, Ripplefit is definitely a must-visit store if you’re ever down the street getting a latte at Citizen or grabbing a salad at Pier 39 (which is literally across the street). Most of their customers are die-hard fans, literally! I overheard one girl walking in asking for their new items and telling the owner she came straight from the hospital. Hard-core shopoholics!